Dear Cuckoo Clock Doctor,

It was very kind of you to respond to our needs with our clock. We will try what you said and see how it goes and, like you say, if we can't follow your directions, we will ask for more help. Thanks so much.
Denise
"Art is good for you and the world!"

Dear Denise,

You are very welcome. I hope this works for you. Have a good weekend.

Sincerely,
John "Papa" Barnette
Cuckoo Clock Repairs by Mail
www.cuckooclockdoctor.com

Nice note from a military family that got their cuckoo running.

Dear Papa,

Toni and I want to thank you again for your help and advice on my cuckoo clock. I did as you said and so far so good. Its been running for almost two weeks now. I appreciate your help and your obvious passion for these clocks.

Here was my answer on how to get their clock running.

Dear Jason and Toni,
Thank you for your question. I would have gladly answered anyway but my son in an Army Reservist and I admire and appreciate your service to our country.

As to your cuckoo clock.

The first thing to check is to see if it is off level. You've probably already done this but this is where we start.Even if it is level on the wall, if that little pendulum hanger wire gets bumped up hard it will knock the clock out of beat. You need to try this with the weights on. Level the clock and start the pendulum. If it runs a little and stops, move the base slightly to the left. If it runs longer but still stops move it slightly further left. If nothing happens go back to level and do the same as above but move the base slightly to the right. If the clock will run without the pendulum on it, then I think I can tell you how to get it running. Leave the weights on and remove the pendulum. You may have to now give that little metal wire hanger that held the pendulum a flick. Or it may start running very fast on its on. If it runs like that, with the age of your clock it needs oiling which you can do with my help. It probably has enough wear and dried oil to stop it. I'll put oiling and "jump starting" instructions below. I have these pre-written because I get similar questions all the time.

How to make an oiler, oil your cuckoo clock and "jump start" it.

Take a paper clip, open it up and whack one end of it with a hammer. That end of clip that you whacked is now your oiler and you will dip it in oil and touch each hole coming thru the back plate that has a shaft running thru it. Use any oil you have around, razor oil, sewing machine oil, motor oil, or 3 in 1 oil. Just don't use WD-40 or any spray oil. You can see the steel of the shafts and usually there are indentations around it in the brass that help hold the oil. Now, here is the most important part. Trace your finger up the pendulum, follow up on that metal hanger and you will see a wire looped around the hanger and it goes up into the movement at a 90 degree angle. That sounds complicated but you will see it as soon as you open the back. I'm not talking about what the pendulum hanger wire is suspended from but a wire the pendulum hanger slips thru. At the end of that wire is a brass wheel with sharp teeth on it called the escape wheel. When the pendulum moves back and forth it lets off the power one tooth at a time. You need to take your paper clip oiler and touch a drop of oil to about every other tooth. Just move the pendulum back and forth to get the wheel to move. If it doesn't you may have to tug slightly on the chain. When the escapement dries out, the clock won't run long. Now that you've oiled the escapement put a drop of oil on that loop the hanger goes thru and on the very top of the hanger where it is suspended from and moves on. If your clock is ever going to run without professional help it will do so now. Equally as important is the leveling of the clock. You may get a little life from this, you may get a lot or nothing will happen. The oil in these clocks turns to gum and the brass filings mix with that and they start wearing those pivot holes you oiled into an oval shape from the gravity of the weight. Once those ovals get too wide the gears separate enough to stop the clock or slow it down to where it will barely run. I hope this will fix you up.
Jason, I hope this gives you somewhere to start. Let me know what happens and I can advise you further if you need it. Have a good Sunday and a good week.

Sincerely,

John "Papa" Barnette
www.cuckooclockdoctor.com

Email from nice lady who got her cuckoo running

From: Cyndy F.

Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:14 AM

I finally took the time to oil my cuckoo clock - I delayed as I wasn't sure it would work again. I'm happy to say that my 40-year old cuckoo clock is back in business. Thanks for the information on how to oil it.

Cyndy

----- Original Message -----

From: John Barnette

To: Cyndy F.

Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:45 PM

Subject: Cuckoo won't run

Dear Cyndy,

Thank you for your questons. I'm going to cut and paste below my instructions on how to oil your clock and "jump start it so to speak. Also, I'm going to include instructions on hoe to tell if your clock has wear that is contributing to a lack of power that affects the running or stops the clock. Your sewing maching oil will do just fine.

How to Oil and "jump start" any clock including cuckoos. Take a paper clip, open it up and whack one end of it with a hammer. That end of clip that you whacked is now your oiler and you will dip it in oil and touch each hole coming thru the back plate that has a shaft running thru it. Use any oil you have around, razor oil, sewing machine oil, motor oil, or 3 in 1 oil. Just don't use WD-40 or any spray oil. You can see the steel of the shafts and usually there are indentations around it in the brass that help hold the oil. Now, here is the most important part. Trace your finger up the pendulum, follow up on that metal hanger and you will see a wire looped around the hanger and it goes up into the movement at a 90 degree angle. That sounds complicated but you will see it as soon as you open the back. I'm not talking about what the pendulum hanger wire is suspended from but a wire the pendulum hanger slips thru. At the end of that wire is a brass wheel with sharp teeth on it called the escape wheel. When the pendulum moves back and forth it lets off the power one tooth at a time. You need to take your paper clip oiler and touch a drop of oil to about every other tooth. Just move the pendulum back and forth to get the wheel to move. If it doesn't you may have to tug slightly on the chain. When the escapement dries out, the clock won't run long. Now that you've oiled the escapement put a drop of oil on that loop the hanger goes thru and on the very top of the hanger where it is suspended from and moves on. If your clock is ever going to run without professional help it will do so now. Equally as important is the leveling of the clock. You may get a little life from this, you may get a lot or nothing will happen. The oil in these clocks turns to gum and the brass filings mix with that and they start wearing those pivot holes you oiled into an oval shape from the gravity of the weight. Once those ovals get too wide the gears separate enough to stop the clock or slow it down to where it will barely run. I hope this will fix you up.

How to tell if your clock is significantly worn or not

Caution: do not lay the clock on its back or turn it over because the chains are only held on their sprockets by gravity and will come off. While looking in the back pull up and down on one chain. Another words tug back and forth on the winding chain and the weight chain of one wheel. Watch the back plate where the steel rods the gears ride on come through the plate. Particularly the 2nd gear up from the bottom. If that steel pivot rod is jumping back and forth in the hole then you have significant wear. Keep doing it and look at the other holes as you go up each train as you are pulling. If your case is big enough to get your hand in there just wiggle the bottom gear that the chain rides on. You will get the same effect. Usually the wear starts on that second gear but it is normal to have 2 or 3 gears worn that much on a clock that has been run a lot. The wear causes the gears to start separating and they don't mesh well. That causes it to loose power all the way up the train of gears. . Try the time side also to check for wear. If one side is worn, it is likely that the other side isn't far behind.

Cyndy, I hope this helps get your clock going. I get questions from all over the world and I like to help people help themselves where they can and at least be well informed as to what may be wrong with their clocks so they can make good decisions. Thanks for pointing out that my website is down and I hope you have a good week.

Sincerely,

John "Papa" Barnette

www.cuckooclockdoctor.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Cyndy

To: papa@cuckooclockdoctor.com

Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:55 PM

Subject: Cuckoo won't run

Hi,

I am looking for information about oiling/lubricating my cuckoo clock. It is 37 years old and has never been lubricated . . . it is now in need of something as it will not keep ticking. As far as I can tell (having taken it apart), it just needs some oil. I have some sewing machine oil which I think I may use and wondered if it would work.

Good luck with your webpage!

Cyndy

Dear Customers,

I want to thank you for your business in 2008. If you need any cuckoo clock repairs or information, as always don't hesitate to ask. Thanks Again,

John "Papa" Barnette
www.cuckooclockdoctor.com
www.cuckooclockdoctor.com/repairprices.html

Nice comments from cuckoo clock repair customers

As you may know, I take on all cuckoo clock repair questions at my website. Here is a letter I received after a questioner phoned me to see if I would be insulted if he sent me enough money to take me and Mrs. Papa out to lunch. All I had done was answer his question about setting his cuckoo clock hands. I get lots of calls with questions about cuckoos and my services, but this was a first. I told him it wasn't expected, I don't mind answering cuckoo clock questions. I get them all the time from someone who bought a clock that didn't meet expectations when it got there from eBay. I certainly didn't mind helping this fellow repair his treasured clock by email. I expected nothing in return

03-12-08

Hi "Papa" John,

I just wanted to thank you again for your precise advice on setting my cuckoo hands correctly. I got it right on the second try. Enclosed is a small token of my appreciation. It won't buy you and your wife a steak dinner, but it might buy you both breakfast at your local diner. If you are ever in the northern New Jersey/Eastern Pennsylvania area give me a call and I'll buy you another breakfast.

Sincerely, BA and phone#

I'll be selling some fine cuckoos before Christmas

Dear customers,

I'm always on the lookout for fine antiques cuckoo clocks that I can repair like new and sell for Christmas. If you run across any at a flea market or yard sale, let me know. I'm always in need of cases, bellows, movement, and weights.

Many of my customers treasured clocks unfortunately have missing pieces. A new weight next to an old weight is very obvious.

Try me, I'll buy your cuckoo!

Ask me your Cuckoo Repair Questions before having your clock serviced!

I'm John "Papa" Barnette The Cuckoo Clock Doctor. My website is www.cuckooclockdoctor.com . Whether yourcuckoo clock has been silent for 50 years or its brand new and the cat pulled it off the wall, finding a clock shop that will repair it can be frustrating. Most clock shops won't take in cuckoos because they are time consuming. When they do take them in they will replace your old movement and bellows with new ones. This saves them time and they will just add the cost of the new parts to their labor. Your old bellows and movements will wind up on eBay. Don't fall for the latest scam. There are some people advertising to oil and adjust your clock for a low price. If that is all your clock needs, save the shipping and just ask me. The gimmick price is a guaranteed loser because you will be charged for any and everything else that they can get away with.I don't work that way. My workshop is tooled up for just cuckoos. Cuckoo clocks are time consuming because you have to remove the bellows "the coo coo whistles", wires, the bird, weights, chains, and music box just to get to the movement. These are all crammed into a tiny case and their adjustment is critical. That is where experience with cuckoos pays off. Now, here is the rub. Generally old cuckoos have deteriorated fabric on the bellows causing the whistles not to work without an airtight fit. I replace the fabric on the bellows if needed. I won't try to sell you new tops or new bellows, I fix the originals. The same applies to the movement. I totally disassemble your movement and clean it ultrasonically. I polish all the pivots and check the front and back plates for wear. I will put in up to 4 bushings, (bearings in the plates that the gears rotate on) in the plates. If it needs more than 4 bushings you need a new movement and we can handle that if necessary. Before I put it back in the clock, I will run your movement for 1 week on a test stand connected to a computer. It will count every tick and every strike of the clock, and spot problems if any. After, I reassemble your clock, I will time it, set the beat, and then run the clock for an additional week before shipping it safely back to you. I will include full instructions on setting up your clock.